Domaine Jean Collet Chablis 12pk 2017
Romain Collet represents the fourth generation of winemakers of this Domaine. Their parcels are located on the best slopes on either side of the Serein river, with best exposure to create focussed and mineral wines in a classic style. Today the Domaine covers around 40ha from Petit Chablis, village, premier cru and grand cru holdings – Romain has already converted the entire cru production over to organic farming and intends to increase this ratio to 100% in the coming years. Read More
Domaine Jean Collet Chablis 2017
Raised entirely in stainless steel, the 2017 Chablis is lovely, offering up attractive aromas of citrus oil, almond paste, oystershell and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and textural, with good concentration, racy acids and a long, delineated finish. The combination of ripe fruit with quintessentially Chablisien cut and tension is compelling. It's well worth seeking out.
Born in 1985, Romain Collet presides over this 37-hectare estate. He took the reins in 2009, pioneering fermentations with ambient yeasts in 2010. There's an interest in organic methods here, though they are as yet applied only to a small percentage of the domaine's surface. Collet harvests relatively ripe grapes and conducts fermentation and élevage in a variety of vessels, including stainless steel, concrete eggs and oak in formats ranging between old foudres and new barrels—the latter exclusively from Tonnellerie Cavin (run by a school friend). The vintages reviewed here were not kind to the domaine, which lost some 60% of its crop in 2016 and a further 30% of the 2017 harvest. While some of Collet's higher appellations strike me as excessively oaky—my tolerance for overt oak expression in Chablis is admittedly low—there is a lot to admire here. If the quality of a domaine's basic bottlings is the best metric of its potential, then the potential here is very great indeed. I'm looking forward to visiting again—and I've promised to bring a bottle of the domaine's 1985 Vaillons from my cellar, a vintage that's apparently no longer represented in the domaine's library.
Rating: 90 Points
Source: William Kelley, Robert Parker Wine Advocate (September 2018)